Bachelorette Invitations

I absolutely love how these invitations turned out! I'm throwing my girlfriend a bachelorette party so I decided to use the patchwork fabric greeting card design for her invitations. But instead of using all fabric scraps, I threw in some lace and only did 1/2 the card.



Below are the supplies I used to make the cards. After printing the invite details on the right side of the card stock, I fussy-cut the fabric to ensure each card has a lingerie print on it, and then cut a strip of lace. (so cute!)

Anyway, really fun and easy project. To make your own, check out this tutorial. Oh, and what better way to end this post than sexy fireman with moustaches? ;p When shopping for the lingerie-print fabric, I came across this awesome novelty print. Designed by Alexander Henry Fabrics. Hmm...will probably make these guys into lingerie bags or lavender sachets ;)

Easy Oven Mitts Tutorial

Put an end to oversized oven mitts! I admit to owning a pair, but those are going bye-bye now that I’ve made my own custom-sized oven mitts. =) This also makes a great (and quick) gift for a friend that loves to cook or bake, or a thoughtful creation for a house warming party. 9 easy steps below.

Materials for 1 oven mitt:

• ¼ yard (main print)
• ¼ yard (inside lining)
• ¼ yard heat-resistant batting (i.e. Insul-Bright)
• matching thread
• fabric scissors

Step 1 – create your oven mitt pattern
Trace your oven mitt pattern on scrap paper (you can use your hand as a guide), then cut the pattern out using scissors. To make a custom size oven mitt to fit your hand, use your hand as an outline and draw a 2 inch allowance along the perimeter of your hand.

Step 2 – cut the main fabric
Take your main fabric print and fold it in half so the wrong sides are facing together. Place the pattern on the top of your folded fabric, and pin in place. Make sure to pin through all 3 layers to keep in place. Using fabric scissors cut a ½ inch allowance along the top perimeter of the pattern. Where the opening to your mitt will be, leave 1 inch of fabric allowance along the edge as shown in red, below. You will use this fabric later to bind the edge.

Step 3 – Cut the lining fabric and batting
Take your main lining fabric and fold it in half so the wrong sides are facing together. Place the pattern on the top of your folded fabric, and pin in place. Make sure to pin through all 3 layers to keep in place. As shown below, using fabric scissors cut a ½ inch allowance along the top perimeter of the pattern except for the where the opening will be. Do the same for the batting.


Step 4 – make a quilt sandwich
At this point you should have the following 6 pieces cut out:


As shown below, make a quilt sandwich for each side of the mitt: layer the fabric so the batting is sandwiched between the top fabric and lining fabric. Pin in place.



Step 5 – quilt both sides
I quilted a simple straight-line stitch, as shown below



Step 6 – Bind the mitten openings
Iron the 1 inch of fabric (from step 2) in half lengthwise, and then fold it over to the lining of the mitten. Pin and sew in place. Below is how the front and back will look finished.



Step 7 – create a loopy-loop for hanging the mitten
Using scrap fabric from your main fabric print, cut a 1.5”x6” strip. Iron the strip in half lengthwise. On each side, iron lengthwise about ¼” inward, as shown below. Sew closed to create a binded strip.


Make the binded strip into a loop, and stitch the bottom ends together as shown below.



Step 8 – Pin the mitt together with right sides facing together
Take the two quilted mitten halves and with right sides together, pin in place. As designated by the red arrow below, place the loopy-loop you created in the previous step adjacent to the opening of the oven mitt with the loop facing the inside of the mitt. Pin in place. The stitched end of the loopy-loop should be sticking out ~1/4 inch as shown below.



Step 9 – Sew along the top perimeter of the mitt, then turn inside out
Sew a ¼ - 1/2 inch seam allowance along the top perimeter of the oven mitt, removing pins as you stitch. Obviously you will need to leave the opening of the mitten un-stitched. Start and end your stitch with a backstitch. When you come across the placement of the loopy-loop when sewing, I recommend doing a backstitch over it to make sure it’s secured. Trim any sides of the mitt that have bulk fabric. Lastly, turn the mitten inside-out. You’re done!

Quick Quilt Binding

Binding your quilt is the LAST step in creating a quilt! There are several ways to bind a quilt, and this is one of the FASTEST ways because there is no blind stitching (by hand) involved. Also, in this method you don’t need to cut and prepare binding strips. Instead, extra fabric from the back of your quilt will be folded around to the front of your quilt top and fastened by sewing a straight stitch with your sewing machine. You will need about 1.5 inches of extra backing fabric around the perimeter of your quilt top.

Below is a quick and simple 5-step binding tutorial:

Step 1
As shown below, cut any excess batting material from your quilt sandwich (FYI for any newbie’s, a quilt sandwich consists of the quilt top, batting, and backing fabric in that order - batting is the fluffy stuff sandwiched between the quilt top and backing fabric).


Step 2
Using a ruler and marker, mark 1.25 inches on the backing fabric around the perimeter of your quilt top (shown below).

Step 3
As shown below, use fabric scissors to cut along the line you marked from Step 2. This will result in 1.25 inches of backing fabric around the perimeter of your quilt top.


Step 4
Fold the backing fabric in half lengthwise (shown in 1st picture below). Next, fold that over onto your quilt top and pin to keep in place (shown in 2nd picture below). Do this around your entire quilt. I placed pins every couple of inches.

When you get to the corners, follow steps 1 and 2 (below) for folding and pinning all corners:

1. Fold the corner over so the edge of the binding is aligned with the quilt top.
   
   
2. With the corner folded over, fold the backing fabric in half lengthwise. Then, fold that over onto your quilt top and pin in place.
   

Step 5
As shown below, sew a straight stitch along the edge of the folded binding. Remove the pins as you sew. You can also sew a zig-zag stitch instead of the straight stitch.



And that’s all there is to it! Quick and simple : ) Let me know if you have any questions.

The ‘Anywhere Tote’ – Tote Bag Tutorial

This bag is great for toting stuff around during your summer endeavors. This is a quick and easy bag with limited sewing involved. Pick out a cute fabric pattern and make one yourself!



Materials:

• 1 yard of fabric (36X44 inches). I used 100% cotton; you can use heavier fabric for a thicker bag.
• ¼ yard of fabric. This will be the lining of the bag straps.
• Eyelet kit (size 7/16”). You will need 4 eyelets.

For this project, start and end all your stitches with a backstitch.

Step 1 - Fold your yard of fabric in half once, then again
Your yard of fabric should measure approx. 36”x44”. With wrong sides facing together, fold the yard of fabric in half width-wise so that it measures 36”x22”, press flat with an iron. Then, fold it in half width-wise again so that it measures 18”x22”, press flat with an iron.

Step 2 – Cut fabric for the straps
Along the 18” non-folded side, cut a 3 inch strip as shown below. After unfolding the strip, it will give you 2 36” long strips. Set these aside to be used later for your bag straps.



Step 3 – Pin and sew the raw, non-folded edges
After cutting the 3” strip, the main folded piece should measure approx. 18”x19”. There should be two sides that have raw, non-folded edges. As shown below, pin these sides down to keep in place and then sew a ¼” seam along both sides.



Step 4 – Create the ‘base’ of your bag
At this point your folded piece of fabric should look more bag-like: 3 closed sides (1 side is the main fold, and the other 2 sides you stitched closed in step 3), and an open side with folded edges. Follow the 4 steps below to form the base of the bag:

1. Position the bag so the opening is at the top. On the bottom LEFT corner of the bag, mark a line 3” over and 3” high, as shown below. This marked line should be parallel with the sides of your bag. Flip the bag over and mark the same line (3” over and 3” high) in the same corner.
   
   
2. As shown in the 1st picture below, puff the corner of the bag out so you can see both lines previously marked. Align the marks so that they connect to form a straight line. Press the corner puff flat with an iron. As shown in the 2nd picture below, sew along the line.
   
   
3. Repeat step 1 and 2 above, but on the bottom RIGHT corner of the bag.
   
   
4. As shown below, trim the left and right corners off. Don’t trim too close to the stitch (when you trim, leave at least ¼” of space between the stitch and your cut).
   
   

Step 5 – Turn the bag inside out, press flat. Install Eyelets
As shown in the first picture below, turn the bag inside out and press flat with an iron. Install the eyelets, 2 on each side of the bag. I placed the eyelets 4” over and 2” down from each side. There should be easy instructions on the back of the eyelet kit on how to install (you will need a hammer, and a sturdy/hard surface to hammer on).



Step 6 – Make the straps, and you’re DONE!
From Step 2, you should have two 3”x36” long strips. From the ¼ yard of fabric, cut 2 more 3”x36” long strips to line the strips cut from step 2. With right sides facing together, pair 2 strips together and pin to keep in place. Sew a ¼” seam along the perimeter, leaving one 3” side open. Turn inside out through the opening (it helps to use a ruler). Press flat with an iron. Close the 3” opening by folding a ¼” seam inward, press flat, and then top stitch with your sewing machine. As shown below, finish the strap by top-stitching a ¼” seam along the perimeter.



Take one strap and put each end through an eyelet on one side of the bag, then tie each end of the strap with a single knot. Do the same with the other strap, but on the other side of the bag.

YAY! You’re done!!